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Concho Belt & Buckle Jewelry

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Navajo & Zuni Concho Belts
For many collectors, no one piece of Indian Jewelry is more highly prized than a beautiful, handmade concho belt. Concho, a derivation of the Spanish word "concha", for shell refers to the oval or round tooled, set or inlaid portions strung or linked into a belt. This jewelry form is one of the oldest forms associated with the Navajo, and was learned during their period of confinement at Ft. Sumner, New Mexico from 1864 until 1868. Besides providing bright decoration to their traditional style of dress, belts also served as a source of readily available trade tender in their silver disks.

The traditional tooling, soldering and cutting techniques were among the first learned from the Spanish New Mexican smiths and harness workers the US Army hired to maintain their equipment needs. A story tells of how the usually observant Navajo might have learned metal work to duplicate the puched metal rations cards issued by the Army. In any case, they learned the craft and adapted it to their cultural designs as well as adopting many early colonial Spanish ones such as the concha, and the "naja", a horseshoe-like form found at the bottom of necklaces and on bridles. This "good luck charm" dates back to 15th Century Spain, and may be an early Moorish influence. Much later, stone setting and cutting was developed and belts and buckles began to carry ornate settings of native turquoise, prized for it's beautiful colors (a.k.a. "skystone") as well as intricate silverwork. From this unique, involved history has come a style of jewelry recognized worldwide as "American", thanks to the creative silversmithing of the Navajo and other Southwestern Indian people. Kiva offers belts in many styles, either linked metal or strung on heavy leather. The leather belts are often unpunched to allow the ultimate owner to personalize the fit.


Ranger Buckle Sets

Another form of belt buckle, is the "Ranger" buckle set, which consists of one or two keepers, the buckle, and the tip, for the other end of the belt. This type of buckle set is best adapted to either a harness type belt, which has a wide main portion carrying a narrow leather strap at each end, for the buckle; or to a narrow 3/4" wide belt.

While it is an old style, it seems to blend in well with more contemporary dressing styles for both men and women. The roots of the design are very Western, referring to the Texas "Rangers" group of volunteer marshalls during the 1850's through 1880's. Their gun holsters were often carried on wide leather belts which distributed the weight of the shooting irons, well for the long ride. A narrow buckle set, often intricately tooled, closed the belt and a silver or brass tip set off the whole effect. This style was not often worn by anyone besides law officers and gunslingers in those days, so was undoubtedly adopted by the Indian silversmiths rather than their having originated it. Kiva keeps a selection of contemporary inlaid, tooled and overlaid ranger buckle sets available. They make a great gift for any lover of the West, or any lover of unique and beautiful jewelry.



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