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For many collectors, no one piece of Indian Jewelry is more highly prized
than a beautiful, handmade concho belt. Concho, a derivation of the Spanish
word "concha", for shell refers to the oval or round tooled, set or inlaid
portions strung or linked into a belt. This jewelry form is one of the oldest
forms associated with the Navajo, and was learned during their period of confinement
at Ft. Sumner, New Mexico from 1864 until 1868. Besides providing bright
decoration to their traditional style of dress, belts also served as a source
of readily available trade tender in their silver disks.
The traditional tooling, soldering and cutting techniques were among
the first learned from the Spanish New Mexican smiths and harness workers
the US Army hired to maintain their equipment needs. A story tells of how
the usually observant Navajo might have learned metal work to duplicate the
puched metal rations cards issued by the Army. In any case, they learned the
craft and adapted it to their cultural designs as well as adopting many early
colonial Spanish ones such as the concha, and the "naja", a horseshoe-like
form found at the bottom of necklaces and on bridles. This "good luck charm"
dates back to 15th Century Spain, and may be an early Moorish influence.
Much later, stone setting and cutting was developed and belts and buckles
began to carry ornate settings of native turquoise, prized for it's beautiful
colors (a.k.a. "skystone") as well as intricate silverwork. From this unique,
involved history has come a style of jewelry recognized worldwide as "American",
thanks to the creative silversmithing of the Navajo and other Southwestern
Indian people. Kiva offers belts in many styles, either linked metal or strung
on heavy leather. The leather belts are often unpunched to allow the ultimate
owner to personalize the fit.
Another form of belt buckle, is the "Ranger" buckle set, which consists
of one or two keepers, the buckle, and the tip, for the other end of the belt.
This type of buckle set is best adapted to either a harness type belt, which
has a wide main portion carrying a narrow leather strap at each end, for
the buckle; or to a narrow 3/4" wide belt.
While it is an old style, it seems to blend in well with more
contemporary dressing styles for both men and women. The roots of the design
are very Western, referring to the Texas "Rangers" group of volunteer marshalls
during the 1850's through 1880's. Their gun holsters were often carried on
wide leather belts which distributed the weight of the shooting irons, well
for the long ride. A narrow buckle set, often intricately tooled, closed
the belt and a silver or brass tip set off the whole effect. This style was
not often worn by anyone besides law officers and gunslingers in those days,
so was undoubtedly adopted by the Indian silversmiths rather than their having
originated it. Kiva keeps a selection of contemporary inlaid, tooled and overlaid
ranger buckle sets available. They make a great gift for any lover of the
West, or any lover of unique and beautiful jewelry.